In the art and science of dyeing with natural stuff, many factors come to play that can greatly impact your final results. Here are some considerations when preparing plant material for dye extraction.
The time of year and maturity of plants that we collect has a real influence in the final results. There are many examples of this. For instance, madder roots need at least three years to develop their valued red. Or the leaves and fruits from a kaki tree have hight levels of tannins when young, but left to mature in the tree and that is it, the tannins have gone.
The chemical compounds present in the plant parts we use will determine the shades we will obtain. And these combine with the water´s you use adds another dimension to the final shades. Distilled water is most neutral, however tab water varies locally; its Ph and presence of minerals and metals will yield different results.
Water Extraction
It is best to simmer the dyestuff in plenty of water. Different plant parts need specific soaking and extraction methods, temperature and time. Here are some general guidelines to follow:
Flowers boil in about 20 minutes.
Leaves benefit from at least 24 hrs soak before boiling for at 1½ hour.
Barks, roots and dyewoods benefit from a soaking overnight, a few days, or even a week before boiling for 1½ hour to 2 hours.
After a first extraction, you can boil the stuff again as long as dye continues to extract, like when processing Madder, which never seems to get exhausted. But this is not true for all plants, Eucalyptus for instance behaves very differently, with little colour left after the 1st extraction.
Different extractions will result in weaker strengths, but may also yield different hues. Some chemicals release its dyeing potential at different times of the extraction time, temperature, or water source. A great example that illustrates how changes in this processing can be found when working with Saffron flowers.
Eco-Print Bundles
Things to consider when preparing eco print bundles:
- Position the plant material as flat as possible against the fabric and roll on if you are after a crisp print.
- Leaves and bark of different species may discharge its dye from the inner or the outer side, front or back.
- Different plants need different times, temperatures, or conditions for their print to show.
- There will be interactions between the different plant stuff in the bundle that might cause interesting and often unexpected results.
This method of dyeing cloths is a wonderful way to create unique designs that defy description. The range and variety of colours and patterns is infinite, as if in a dream. It is a fun and sustainable way to design and re-design your favourite item cloths.
Bundles can be boiled or steamed, and can be left to cool down overnight or left for a few days, if you can bear the curiosity. Patience pays off and colours will deepen with time. It is also fun to leave bits, threads, ribbons on jars for weeks and see what happens.
This waiting to see the results of the work when making bundles is quite therapeutic. I have found it to be a great exercise to help me overcome my impatient nature, as rewards have always been worth the wait.
Have fun and experiment: I can confidently promise you joyful and surprising results.
From me to you
